Grit, Glamour & Geometry: Deconstructing The Metropolis Collection
For decades, simple casting techniques such as sandcasting have been carryied a particular reputation in fine jewellery. Historically used in raw, organic or intentionally rustic pieces, the technique's chaotic surface textures were seen as the antithesis to precise, structured goldsmithing.
METROPOLIS Ring 1: Handcrafted 9ct gold Art Deco ring featuring a Brazilian tourmaline, white sapphires, and a Kennack Sands sandcast shank rotated at 45° by Iain Sainsbury.
The METROPOLIS Collection was designed to challenge and break down that barrier.
Drawing inspiration from the machine-age optimism and soaring architectural lines of the 1920s, this collection examines a deliberate conflict: the unpolished, industrial grit of the forge juxtaposed with the polished, sophisticated grandeur of the cityscape.
Here is a look “behind the bench” about how I combined raw Cornish sand, sacred geometry and high-precision gemmology to develop a new visual language for creating fine jewellery.
Taming Chaos: From beach sand to haute fine jewellery
Each piece in the METROPOLIS Collection begins on the untamed coastline of Cornwall. Sands collected from specific shorelines — whether it be the dark, serpentine grain of Kennack Sands, the light, fine grain of Porthkidney Beach or the mineral and iron rich sands of Trevaunance Cove — all bring their unique characteristics to the foundry.
When molten single mine origin (SMO) gold is poured into these sand molds, the liquid metal freezes in a chaotic moment of instability. The end product is a surface that is granular, erratic, and deeply tactile.
"The problem is not eliminating the rawness of the sandcast gold — it is to refine it so that it appears not as an error, but instead as an intentional, miniature monument."
Once cast, each piece of jewellery undergoes the intense rigour and discipline of the workbench. Each surface is carefully examined, and either filed and buffed into submission or left to preserve the natural texture and "grit" of the sandcast gold. The outcome is final product with sharp, mirror polished edges framing the original texture of the sandcast gold.
METROPOLIS Earrings 1 : Golden Ratio architectural bars paired with raw Cornish beach sand textures and precision-set gemstones.
The Architectural Blueprint: Mathmatics Meets Metal
In order to offset the randomness inherent in sandcast gold, the structural frameworks of all rings, pendants and drop earrings use rigid, mathematical relationships.
Golden ratio: During the Are Deco era this ratio was used extensively to sleek geometry, soaring architechture and product design. The Golden Ratio is an irrational number that approximately equals 1.618. This is frequently shown as a golden spiral inside a rectangular frame, the result is not perfect but a close approximation. Each three bar pendant and drop earring has been proportionally designed using the Golden ratio, this creates a instinctive visual harmony and anchors the eyeeven when presented against a coarse background of raw Cornish sand.
Rotated Perspective: In METROPOLIS Ring 1, the shank and the central geometric cluster combine to angle on the finger at a sharp 45 degrees. This structural shift holds the Brazilian tourmaline and white sapphires at an uncharacteristic angle, reflecting light off their facets in an unexpected manner.
Ziggurats & Multi-Alloy Contrast: The ziggurat in the Art Deco era was the pinnacle of architectural design, the stepped pyramind motif was core to many city skylines. METROPOLIS Ring 2 and Ring 3 draw directly from the iconic, stepped silhouettes of 1920s skyscrapers. Pairing contrasting 14ct white and yellow gold side-by-side creates enhanced clarity in defining the layered structure, and the high polish on the steps creates a frame for the raw sandcast elements.
Precision Gemmology: framing the structural line
Gemstones in The METROPOLIS Collection are not merely decorative accents; they are key structural anchors. Rather than relying on conventional settings, the METROPOLIS stones are selected for their bold, self-assured geometry and vivid color saturation.
Brazilian emeralds of vibrant greens, rich red Mozambique rubies, and multicoloured Sri Lankan princess cut sapphires are channel-set and baguette-set edge-to-edge. Their clean clarity tightens the overarching sense of structure, throwing the surrounding raw gold textures into even sharper relief.
METROPOLIS Ring 4: A 7.51ct precision-cut London Blue Topaz framed by princess-cut Ocean Diamonds and raw Trevaunance Cove sandcast gold.
The Statement Piece: METROPOLIS Ring 4
The centrepiece of the collection showcases a stunning 7.51ct London Blue Topaz, custom-faceted by celebrated lapidary artist Patrice Spec. It is surrounded by an abstract geometric bezel and flanked by 0.5ct of Princess-Cut Ocean Diamonds, their own cut reflecting that of the centre stone. Beneath the pavilion of the topaz lies another surprise, a 0.1ct diamond, precisely placed to flash light upward through the table of the topaz as the hand moves.
Where Industrial Grit Meets Modern Luxury
The Metropolis Collection is proof that creating modern sustainable jewellery does not require a compromise on complex, museum-grade design. By combining ethically sourced materials—like Betts SMO gold and Ocean Diamonds—with fierce bench discipline, raw earth is elevated into architectural luxury.
Grit sits beside structure. Structure sits beside glamour. Together, they capture the timeless spirit of a modern metropolis.
Grit sits next to structure. Structure sits next to glamour. Together they represent a timeless expression of a Modern METROPOLIS.