One question that frequently comes up is why choose handmade jewellery?

Handmade jewellery is exactly that, handmade, it is not mass produced in a factory made as cheaply as possible to maximise profit. It is crafted at every stage by hand, there may be tools used to make this more efficient, such as when drilling, sanding or polishing but the core of the development, and creation is done manually with saws, files, etc. With the advent of CAD, 3D printing and modern casting techniques in the design process the line between handmade and manufactured blurs and the question arises:

At what point is handmade, handmade?

For something to be handmade I strongly feel that the creator/designer should be involved and craft the piece themselves. CAD may be useful in design but printing something in wax and then have it cast before sending it off to another person to have stones set is not handmade, it is manufactured. On my site, if I say that something is handmade, I have crafted that piece at every stage, from designing it (I do this on paper with pencils, etc), to making the piece, sand casting elements, hand forging parts, cutting and shaping seats and collets for stones, and then setting stones.

If another craftsperson has been involved I will stay that in the description (occasionally I will get a piece set by a stone setter if it is something beyond my skill base). So why do I bother to make things by hand? Etsy and other sites are awash with pieces which are very cheap and seem to do the job.

Simply put - uniqueness, quality and sustainability

Every piece I make is unique, whether it is a stock item on my website or a commission, each piece has been created by hand.

• A piece that has been sandcast, uses an ancient technique of sand casting, each cast is individual and cannot be used again so it is by definition, unique.

• If an item uses gemstones (with the exception of moissanites which are lab created) each stone is unique and cut according to the original crystal’s limitations so the piece has to be created around the gemstone.

The quality and detail of crafted handmade items is a key difference with mass production.

• In mass produced items, everything is made to fit the design, the metals, stones, etc all have to adapt to fit the design. In hand crafting it is the opposite, there will be a design, but this is adapted to fit the materials, as such settings for stones, design element may change to adapt to and enhance the materials.

• In mass production and manufacture everything is done to deliver an item at the lowest cost to maximise profit, this frequently leads to corners being cut to keep costs down.

• Precious metal quality is another key difference, every item I make is sent for assay, meaning that it is assessed. by the Edinburgh Assay Office and hallmarked to show the quality of the precious metals used. Simply because something has 925 stamped on it does not mean it is Sterling Silver - there is more on this item on my journal item focusing on hallmarking - each precious metal is an alloy of metals, not all countries are as rigorous as the UK and other EU countries about what is alloyed with gold or silver.

Sustainability is a core part of my values and my business, all my materials are selected for sustainability.

• All of my precious metals are recycled, 100% of them, this is why I work almost exclusively in gold and silver, there is a plentiful availability of recycled metals (note - at present there is not a plentiful supply of recycled platinum).

• All my gemstones are as ethically and sustainably sourced as possible, I only work with stone dealers who can trace and identify the sources of the stones, this is to avoid using stones which may have been mined unsustainably or have been traded to support unsustainable or unethical practices (such as supporting war efforts terrorism and people trafficking, etc).

• I frequently use stones and materials which are not AA/AAA grade, as these are frequently stones that would be discarded by the main manufacturers as they do not fit their designs, I however can adapt my designs to fit non standard shapes of stones, and frequently this makes the piece more interesting.

• The packaging I use is made from either FSC eco friendly packaging, or from recycled materials, with shipping materials made from recycled cardboard.

• As I am based in the UK and the majority of my materials, resources and supplies come from the UK the carbon footprint is lower than something mass produced in a country such as China, buying local (even in the same country) is a more environmentally sustainable option.

So why buy handmade jewellery?

For the quality, the attention to detail, the uniqueness, the sustainability and eco credentials or just to support local artisans, there are lots of reasons, I hope this helps you make a decision.